{"id":8803,"date":"2018-10-26T09:39:04","date_gmt":"2018-10-26T06:39:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/?p=8803"},"modified":"2018-10-29T01:42:40","modified_gmt":"2018-10-28T22:42:40","slug":"a-first-on-pumori-se-face-its-in-the-piolets-dor-spirit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/a-first-on-pumori-se-face-its-in-the-piolets-dor-spirit\/","title":{"rendered":"A First on Pumori SE Face: \u201cIt\u2019s in the Piolets d\u2019Or Spirit\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"

The new route that Teofil Vlad, Zsolt Torok, and Romic\u0103 Popa have opened on Pumori Mt. (7,161m) this October is quite a stunning result for a country which has merely started to build a new mountaineering culture \u2013<\/strong> t<\/strong>he right one nowadays.<\/strong><\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n[Type of content: Report]\n

***<\/p>\n

After a 9-day strenuous technical ascent, the three Romanian-born climbers made it to the summit of Pumori in the Himalayas of Nepal on October 18 at 3.00 p.m., local time. \u201cWe made it\u201d<\/em>, Teofil Vlad broke the news during a phone conversation soon after descending the mountain.<\/p>\n

Vlad described briefly the ascent.<\/p>\n

Strategy<\/strong><\/h4>\n

We set up the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) near the wall. After four bivouacs we reached a ridge. We had a day to rest and then we advanced for the summit. In the following two days we descended on the Western Face of the mountain, so we reached Gorak Shep. We spent the night there. The next day we returned to BC. So, we climbed for nine days.<\/em><\/p>\n

Key moments<\/strong><\/h4>\n

The low temperature, the strong winds (about 100 km\/hour) in the summit day, the pain to climb with a backpack for several days in a row, the glacier we descended, the inconvenient places for bivouac (the first two didn<\/em>\u2019t allow us to set up the tent)<\/em>, the fact that we were three guys to sleep in a two-person tent… To make the story short: alpine style brings key moments all the way through.<\/em><\/p>\n

Crisis<\/strong><\/h4>\n

A specific crisis didn\u2019t emerge during the expedition, he says.<\/p>\n

We had to deal with what such an expedition requires. Cold, oxygen depletion, dehydration, exhaustion, discomfort \u2013 they\u2019re all part of the alpine style. We faced them all and moved forward.<\/em><\/p>\n

Communication <\/strong><\/h4>\n

Vlad thinks the communication among the team members was good. It would rank it at 4 on a scale from 1 to 5 (maximum).<\/p>\n

Other teams<\/strong><\/h4>\n

There was a team who attempted the classical route up to Camp 1. A group had in plan to climb the route to the ridge we reached after climbing the wall, but they gave up. We haven\u2019t met other teams with a project like ours.<\/em><\/p>\n

In the future<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Vlad says the three climbers have discussed the possibility to make up a team for future expedition projects. Before Pumori, Vlad, Torok, and Popa had previously climbed together as a team in the Carpathians and in the Alps.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Redline: the route that Zsolt Torok (left), Romica Popa (middle) and Teofil Vlad (right) say they opened to the summit of Pumori in Nepal.<\/p><\/div>\n

Value<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Does their route on Pumori have any chances to be nominated for a Piolet d\u2019Or recognition? Vlad doesn\u2019t know. \u201cBut I presume it is in the Piolets d\u2019Or spirit\u201d, <\/em>he says.<\/p>\n

The\u00a0Piolets d’Or<\/em>\u00a0is an event celebrating alpinism and its ethics. According to the organizers, the purpose of the Piolets d’Or awards is \u201c<\/em>to raise awareness about the year’s greatest ascents across the world. They aim to celebrate the taste for adventure, the bravery and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world’s great mountain ranges.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Recent history<\/strong><\/h4>\n

According to the Piolets d\u2019Or website archive, only three* similar ascents accomplished by Romanian teams have been in the \u201cPiolets d\u2019Or spirit\u201d, <\/em>as Teofil Vlad puts it:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • Peak5 (6,421m), Nepal, 2016. Team: Zsolt Torok-Vlad C\u0103pu\u0219an;<\/li>\n
  • Zanskar (6,200m), India, 2016. Team: Cosmin Andron-Cristina Pogacean<\/li>\n
  • Ghandarbha\u00a0Chuli (6,248m), Nepal, 2013.\u00a0Team: Cosmin Andron-Cristina Pogacean<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    In 2006, another Romanian climber, Constantin L\u0103c\u0103tu\u0219u, accomplished a world first on the lower peaks of Himalayas (Peak Europa – 6,403m, Tashi Kang – 6,386m Nepal) \u2013 the playground nowadays for explorers and innovative technical ascents. L\u0103c\u0103tu\u0219u climbed with Frank Meutzner and Goetz Wiegand (Germany).<\/p>\n

    Zsolt Torok and Teofil Vlad, now successful\u00a0on Pumori, gained recognition in the Himalayan climbing community after their successful Nanga Parbat (8,126m) Schell route expedition in summer 2013 (the other team members of the Romanian expedition on Nanga Parbat were Marius Gane, Aurel S\u0103l\u0103\u0219an and Bruno Adamcsek).<\/p>\n

    ***<\/p>\n

    *LATER EDIT – CORRECTION: PDO’s available archive is for 2017 and 2016. Therefore, this article was updated with a third Romanian ascent (2013) that was considered for nomination by Piolets d’Or (PDO)\u00a0Commitee:\u00a0Ghandarbha\u00a0Chuli (6,248m). Team: Cosmin Andron-Cristina Pogacean.<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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