<\/h4>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][divider line_type=”Small Line” custom_height=”20″][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]Type of content: Interview
\n<\/em><\/p>\n***<\/p>\n
Pink is nothing but a style of mountain climbing for Aurel Salasan, the 30-year curly climber born in Romania who climbed the dangerous Fitz Roy in January 2015. His rope was Romanian Alin Stana.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” equal_height=”yes” bg_image=”6306″ background_image_mobile_hidden=”true” bg_position=”left center” bg_repeat=”no-repeat” parallax_bg=”true” parallax_bg_speed=”slow” bg_color=”#0a0a0a” scene_position=”center” text_color=”light” text_align=”left” top_padding=”5%” bottom_padding=”5%” color_overlay=”#000000″ overlay_strength=”0.8″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]How many people climbed Fitz Roy in this season (early 2015, l.e.), on the French-Argentinean route?<\/strong><\/em>
\nWe were two teams in that window of good weather. Many teams gave up because of the big amount of snow on the wall.<\/p>\nWhat was your expectation before departure?<\/strong><\/em>
\nOur goal was to reach the summit on the Supercanaleta route (West face). It proved to be extremely risky due to the thick layer of snow. We eventually chose a more difficult, but safer route\u200a\u2014\u200athe French-Argentinean one. Our climb turned into a real success.<\/p>\nWhat was the toughest moment during the climb?<\/strong><\/em>
\nIt was the thirst, when we got dehydrated while we were hanging on the wall and the sun was burning. It was also tough for us to carry the heavy backpacks; to climb the slippery rock and ascend on the breaking ice, near the summit; the two bivouac nights in the open air, with no sleeping bags\u2026 But the thirst was so hard to bear.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” top_padding=”5%” bottom_padding=”5%” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][divider line_type=”No Line”][vc_column_text]On January 22 in 2015, Salasan and Alin Stana, his rope companion, reached the summit of Fitz Roy (11,073 feet), the tallest mountain in Patagonia\u2019s Los Glaciares National Park (Argentina). They did it on the Southeast face, against all odds: avalanche threats, dehydration, bivouacking without sleeping bags, big rock falls and the breaking ice.<\/strong>[\/vc_column_text][divider line_type=”No Line”][vc_column_text]\n![\"Image:](\"http:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/salasan.jpeg\")
Image: Aurel Salasan, Expeditition in Patagonia – 2015<\/p><\/div>\n
You wrote you had only one ice screw. What if you hadn\u2019t had it at all?
\n<\/strong><\/em>We would have climbed further, we were driven enough to continue. We know our capabilities in such situations.<\/p>\nWhich sensation up there was the most unpleasant of all? Something you don\u2019t want to live again?
\n<\/strong><\/em>It was a big rock which passed nearby my head. It was as big as a TV set. I looked at the situation as being normal in such circumstances\u2026 The attitude in these moments is: \u201cThink pink!\u201d<\/p>\nWhich was the biggest joy?
\n<\/strong><\/em>It happened when I saw the big ice blocks beyond Cerro Torre\u2026 I started hearing Vangelis\u2019 music in my head and I imagined myself in the middle of that huge whiteness. It was magnificent.<\/p>\n\u201cWe will cover 10,000 km along the Andes Mountains\u201d<\/h2>\n
When did you start planning this expedition?<\/strong><\/em>
\nI have been working on this expedition since last summer. I and Alin Stan\u0103, my partner, were restoring a church\u200a\u2014\u200aI recall we were hanging in ropes\u200a\u2014\u200awhen we made that decision. We bought our tickets in just a few days, and then we started training in the Carpathians Mountains. We worked also hard to raise the necessary money.<\/p>\nWhat were those things to stop you from leaving? And what pushed you to go in the end?<\/strong><\/em>
\nMy soul belongs here, to my childhood places. It is a privilege to live near the Retezat Mountains, it is a fairytale spot. But my curiosity pushes me all the time to see what lies beyond the high mountains I meet and climb…What’s higher? What’s steeper?<\/p>\nWho\u00a0supported\u00a0you with money in this expedition?<\/strong><\/em>
\nWe raised ourselves most of our money, through work. We were also sponsored by friends who own small companies\u2026 people who understand our passion or who practice various mountains sports.<\/p>\nWhat\u2019s next?<\/strong><\/em>
\nThe latter part of the expedition schedule is in progress: to cover 10,000 km along the Andes Mountains from the very South point of South America to Ecuador. We will spend four more months here. We\u2019ll get to know the local traditions better and to climb mountains from Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador.<\/p>\nAre you happy so far?<\/strong><\/em>
\nI am extremely satisfied with the result. Even if one doesn\u2019t achieve his or her goal, each experience is useful for further projects.<\/p>\n![\"French-Argentinean](\"http:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/french-arg-route.jpeg\")
French-Argentinean Route:: 650m 55\u00b0 6a+6c<\/p><\/div>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” equal_height=”yes” bg_image=”6329″ background_image_mobile_hidden=”true” bg_position=”left center” bg_repeat=”no-repeat” parallax_bg=”true” parallax_bg_speed=”slow” bg_color=”#0a0a0a” scene_position=”center” text_color=”light” text_align=”left” top_padding=”5%” bottom_padding=”5%” color_overlay=”#000000″ overlay_strength=”0.8″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]\n
\u201cNanga Parbat pushed me to my physical and psychological limits spanning two months. But Fitz Roy burned me out in just four days.\u201d<\/h2>\n
Aurel Salasan was a team-member of the Romanian expedition on Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters), located in Pakistan, in 2013. [The team chose the Rupal Face, Schell route\u200a\u2014\u200awhich was climbed just a few times, spanning decades]. While the climbers were equipping the route, on the opposite side of the mountain (Diamir, base camp), one of the worst massacres in mountaineering history was happening.<\/strong> A group of terrorists rubbed and shot to death 11 people, of which 9 international climbers<\/em><\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\nDespite the dreadful news, the Romanian expedition went on. Alan Arnette, a climber, a mountaineering journalist and a member of the Explorers Club and the American Alpine Club wrote in July 2013: \u201cThe Pakistani military evacuated more than 40 climbers from Nanga Parbat but a small 5 person Romanian team climbing from the opposite side on the Rupal Face remained. Four of the five (Bruno Adamcsek, Marius Gane, Aurel S\u0103l\u0103\u0219an, Zsolt Torok and Teo Vlad) summited on July 19th. This team is to be congratulated for their extraordinary commitment to their climb.”<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” top_padding=”5%” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]After the success on Nanga Parbat, in 2013, why you did not continue to climb other 8,000-meter mountains?<\/strong><\/em>
\nI don\u2019t necessarily look at the height of a mountain, but rather at its steepness. I wanted something different, challenging enough.<\/p>\nWhich of the two projects\u200a\u2014\u200aFitz Roy and Nanga Parbat\u200a\u2014\u200aexhausted you the most?<\/strong><\/em>
\nSituations were different. Nanga Parbat pushed me to my physical and psychological limits spanning two months, it was a slow process. But Fitz Roy burned me out in just four days\u200a\u2014\u200aof which two I spent on the wall. But here is the secret: to control for how long you are willing to dose your energy. Bad weather can waste your resources pretty fast.<\/p>\nWhich were your most three successful projects?<\/strong><\/em>
\nThe first was in the Alps, the North Face of Grossglockner summit, on Mayerlrampe and Bergfuhrer routes. Then it was Caucasus\u200a\u2014\u200aElbrus and the Eastern Pillar of Donguz Orun Peak. Last but not least, it was Thian Shan, Khan Tengri Peak (7,010m).<\/p>\n![\"\u201cBooks](\"http:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/books-200x300.jpeg\")
<\/a>\u201cBooks were my first mountains to climb\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n
What are the chances for a climber coming from a small-sized economy to become a world-class climber? What does he\/she need to get there?<\/strong><\/em>
\nThe chances are small, because of the financial shortage. To counteract, he or she needs a lot of determination, passion and work even since childhood\u2026 and supportive parents, too.<\/p>\nWhich is te biggest barrier when you plan your projects?<\/em><\/strong>
\nIt\u2019s money, usually.<\/p>\nWho are the climbers that inspire you?<\/strong><\/em>
\nI could say that I started climbing through reading mountaineering literature, i.e. Cuxi (Alexandru-Bradut Serban) and his diary, \u201cThe Solitude of Verticals\u201d. There are several high altitude mountaineers that I admire, such as Denis Urubko (Russia) and Steve House (USA). Also, Colin Haley (USA), David Lama (Austria), Dean Potter (USA) and Markus Pucher (Austria) are among the technical climbers that have inspired me throughout life.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]![\"pataclimb\"](\"http:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/03\/pataclimb-187x300.jpeg\")
<\/a>Massif Fitz Roy is among the most technically challenging mountains on Earth. The mountain may see only a single ascent in a year.<\/p>\nABOUT: Fitz Roy or \u201cEl Chalten\u201d is also known as the smoking mountain (because of the clouds on the summit). It is the tallest mountain in Patagonia\u2019s Los Glaciares National Park.<\/p>\n
GEOLOGICAL TYPE: Granite<\/p>\n
HEIGHT: 3,375 meters \/ 11,073 feet<\/p>\n
DANGER: All its rock faces are steep and require difficult, technical climbing to ascend. \u201cBecause of this, it was considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world for decades. Even today, the region\u2019s unpredictable weather and relative isolation makes it extremely dangerous. As a result, Fitz Roy may see only a single ascent in a year: truly the mark of a dangerous, difficult mountain (source: Matadornetwork.com)\u201d<\/p>\n
FRENCH-ARGENTINEAN ROUTE: Coordinates: 650m 55\u00b0 6a+6c. It is situated on the Southeast face of the mountain (see picture on the left, source: PataClimb.com)<\/p>\n
FIRST: It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, via Southeast Ridge.<\/p>\n
Photos: Aurel S\u0103l\u0103\u0219an, Alin Stan\u0103<\/h6>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
[vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][morphing_outline starting_color=”#dd3333″]Mountaineering\/ international audience[\/morphing_outline][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1508580568355{background-color: #f2f2f2 !important;}”] Read an interview…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":6290,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[99,95,96,98,97],"class_list":{"0":"post-6289","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-blog","8":"tag-alin-stana","9":"tag-aurel-salasan","10":"tag-fitz-roy","11":"tag-nanga-parbat","12":"tag-patagonia","13":"pmpro-has-access"},"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6289"}],"version-history":[{"count":70,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9474,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289\/revisions\/9474"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6290"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6289"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6289"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6289"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
\nWe were two teams in that window of good weather. Many teams gave up because of the big amount of snow on the wall.<\/p>\n
What was your expectation before departure?<\/strong><\/em> What was the toughest moment during the climb?<\/strong><\/em> Image: Aurel Salasan, Expeditition in Patagonia – 2015<\/p><\/div>\n You wrote you had only one ice screw. What if you hadn\u2019t had it at all? Which sensation up there was the most unpleasant of all? Something you don\u2019t want to live again? Which was the biggest joy? When did you start planning this expedition?<\/strong><\/em> What were those things to stop you from leaving? And what pushed you to go in the end?<\/strong><\/em> Who\u00a0supported\u00a0you with money in this expedition?<\/strong><\/em> What\u2019s next?<\/strong><\/em> Are you happy so far?<\/strong><\/em> French-Argentinean Route:: 650m 55\u00b0 6a+6c<\/p><\/div>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”full_width_background” equal_height=”yes” bg_image=”6329″ background_image_mobile_hidden=”true” bg_position=”left center” bg_repeat=”no-repeat” parallax_bg=”true” parallax_bg_speed=”slow” bg_color=”#0a0a0a” scene_position=”center” text_color=”light” text_align=”left” top_padding=”5%” bottom_padding=”5%” color_overlay=”#000000″ overlay_strength=”0.8″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]\n Aurel Salasan was a team-member of the Romanian expedition on Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters), located in Pakistan, in 2013. [The team chose the Rupal Face, Schell route\u200a\u2014\u200awhich was climbed just a few times, spanning decades]. While the climbers were equipping the route, on the opposite side of the mountain (Diamir, base camp), one of the worst massacres in mountaineering history was happening.<\/strong> A group of terrorists rubbed and shot to death 11 people, of which 9 international climbers<\/em><\/a>. <\/em><\/p>\n Despite the dreadful news, the Romanian expedition went on. Alan Arnette, a climber, a mountaineering journalist and a member of the Explorers Club and the American Alpine Club wrote in July 2013: \u201cThe Pakistani military evacuated more than 40 climbers from Nanga Parbat but a small 5 person Romanian team climbing from the opposite side on the Rupal Face remained. Four of the five (Bruno Adamcsek, Marius Gane, Aurel S\u0103l\u0103\u0219an, Zsolt Torok and Teo Vlad) summited on July 19th. This team is to be congratulated for their extraordinary commitment to their climb.”<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” top_padding=”5%” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]After the success on Nanga Parbat, in 2013, why you did not continue to climb other 8,000-meter mountains?<\/strong><\/em> Which of the two projects\u200a\u2014\u200aFitz Roy and Nanga Parbat\u200a\u2014\u200aexhausted you the most?<\/strong><\/em> Which were your most three successful projects?<\/strong><\/em> \u201cBooks were my first mountains to climb\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n What are the chances for a climber coming from a small-sized economy to become a world-class climber? What does he\/she need to get there?<\/strong><\/em> Which is te biggest barrier when you plan your projects?<\/em><\/strong> Who are the climbers that inspire you?<\/strong><\/em> ABOUT: Fitz Roy or \u201cEl Chalten\u201d is also known as the smoking mountain (because of the clouds on the summit). It is the tallest mountain in Patagonia\u2019s Los Glaciares National Park.<\/p>\n GEOLOGICAL TYPE: Granite<\/p>\n HEIGHT: 3,375 meters \/ 11,073 feet<\/p>\n DANGER: All its rock faces are steep and require difficult, technical climbing to ascend. \u201cBecause of this, it was considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world for decades. Even today, the region\u2019s unpredictable weather and relative isolation makes it extremely dangerous. As a result, Fitz Roy may see only a single ascent in a year: truly the mark of a dangerous, difficult mountain (source: Matadornetwork.com)\u201d<\/p>\n FRENCH-ARGENTINEAN ROUTE: Coordinates: 650m 55\u00b0 6a+6c. It is situated on the Southeast face of the mountain (see picture on the left, source: PataClimb.com)<\/p>\n FIRST: It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, via Southeast Ridge.<\/p>\n [vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][morphing_outline starting_color=”#dd3333″]Mountaineering\/ international audience[\/morphing_outline][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1508580568355{background-color: #f2f2f2 !important;}”] Read an interview…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":6290,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[99,95,96,98,97],"class_list":{"0":"post-6289","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-blog","8":"tag-alin-stana","9":"tag-aurel-salasan","10":"tag-fitz-roy","11":"tag-nanga-parbat","12":"tag-patagonia","13":"pmpro-has-access"},"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6289"}],"version-history":[{"count":70,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9474,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6289\/revisions\/9474"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6290"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6289"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6289"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.larisaghitulescu.ro\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6289"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
\nOur goal was to reach the summit on the Supercanaleta route (West face). It proved to be extremely risky due to the thick layer of snow. We eventually chose a more difficult, but safer route\u200a\u2014\u200athe French-Argentinean one. Our climb turned into a real success.<\/p>\n
\nIt was the thirst, when we got dehydrated while we were hanging on the wall and the sun was burning. It was also tough for us to carry the heavy backpacks; to climb the slippery rock and ascend on the breaking ice, near the summit; the two bivouac nights in the open air, with no sleeping bags\u2026 But the thirst was so hard to bear.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” top_padding=”5%” bottom_padding=”5%” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][divider line_type=”No Line”][vc_column_text]On January 22 in 2015, Salasan and Alin Stana, his rope companion, reached the summit of Fitz Roy (11,073 feet), the tallest mountain in Patagonia\u2019s Los Glaciares National Park (Argentina). They did it on the Southeast face, against all odds: avalanche threats, dehydration, bivouacking without sleeping bags, big rock falls and the breaking ice.<\/strong>[\/vc_column_text][divider line_type=”No Line”][vc_column_text]\n
\n<\/strong><\/em>We would have climbed further, we were driven enough to continue. We know our capabilities in such situations.<\/p>\n
\n<\/strong><\/em>It was a big rock which passed nearby my head. It was as big as a TV set. I looked at the situation as being normal in such circumstances\u2026 The attitude in these moments is: \u201cThink pink!\u201d<\/p>\n
\n<\/strong><\/em>It happened when I saw the big ice blocks beyond Cerro Torre\u2026 I started hearing Vangelis\u2019 music in my head and I imagined myself in the middle of that huge whiteness. It was magnificent.<\/p>\n\u201cWe will cover 10,000 km along the Andes Mountains\u201d<\/h2>\n
\nI have been working on this expedition since last summer. I and Alin Stan\u0103, my partner, were restoring a church\u200a\u2014\u200aI recall we were hanging in ropes\u200a\u2014\u200awhen we made that decision. We bought our tickets in just a few days, and then we started training in the Carpathians Mountains. We worked also hard to raise the necessary money.<\/p>\n
\nMy soul belongs here, to my childhood places. It is a privilege to live near the Retezat Mountains, it is a fairytale spot. But my curiosity pushes me all the time to see what lies beyond the high mountains I meet and climb…What’s higher? What’s steeper?<\/p>\n
\nWe raised ourselves most of our money, through work. We were also sponsored by friends who own small companies\u2026 people who understand our passion or who practice various mountains sports.<\/p>\n
\nThe latter part of the expedition schedule is in progress: to cover 10,000 km along the Andes Mountains from the very South point of South America to Ecuador. We will spend four more months here. We\u2019ll get to know the local traditions better and to climb mountains from Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador.<\/p>\n
\nI am extremely satisfied with the result. Even if one doesn\u2019t achieve his or her goal, each experience is useful for further projects.<\/p>\n\u201cNanga Parbat pushed me to my physical and psychological limits spanning two months. But Fitz Roy burned me out in just four days.\u201d<\/h2>\n
\nI don\u2019t necessarily look at the height of a mountain, but rather at its steepness. I wanted something different, challenging enough.<\/p>\n
\nSituations were different. Nanga Parbat pushed me to my physical and psychological limits spanning two months, it was a slow process. But Fitz Roy burned me out in just four days\u200a\u2014\u200aof which two I spent on the wall. But here is the secret: to control for how long you are willing to dose your energy. Bad weather can waste your resources pretty fast.<\/p>\n
\nThe first was in the Alps, the North Face of Grossglockner summit, on Mayerlrampe and Bergfuhrer routes. Then it was Caucasus\u200a\u2014\u200aElbrus and the Eastern Pillar of Donguz Orun Peak. Last but not least, it was Thian Shan, Khan Tengri Peak (7,010m).<\/p>\n<\/a>
\nThe chances are small, because of the financial shortage. To counteract, he or she needs a lot of determination, passion and work even since childhood\u2026 and supportive parents, too.<\/p>\n
\nIt\u2019s money, usually.<\/p>\n
\nI could say that I started climbing through reading mountaineering literature, i.e. Cuxi (Alexandru-Bradut Serban) and his diary, \u201cThe Solitude of Verticals\u201d. There are several high altitude mountaineers that I admire, such as Denis Urubko (Russia) and Steve House (USA). Also, Colin Haley (USA), David Lama (Austria), Dean Potter (USA) and Markus Pucher (Austria) are among the technical climbers that have inspired me throughout life.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=”in_container” scene_position=”center” text_color=”dark” text_align=”left” overlay_strength=”0.3″][vc_column column_padding=”no-extra-padding” column_padding_position=”all” background_color_opacity=”1″ background_hover_color_opacity=”1″ width=”1\/1″][vc_column_text]<\/a>Massif Fitz Roy is among the most technically challenging mountains on Earth. The mountain may see only a single ascent in a year.<\/p>\nPhotos: Aurel S\u0103l\u0103\u0219an, Alin Stan\u0103<\/h6>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"